Game Design Concepts Continued…
So I banged and banged on the core concept of how to drop away most of the modifiers in the game (making it easier to pick up and play) but to keep those modifiers within the mechanics of play or the game wouldn’t be very fun on re-peat play (all the tactics would be missing).
Now I’m trying to remember where the epiphany came from…and try as I might, I can’t. Strange. Regardless, during that process I realized that you could take various dice bell curves and use that to approximate modifiers.
For example, three of the previous modifiers I had were the size of the target (i.e. differences between Destroyer, Light Cruiser, Armored Cruiser and Battleship), whether you were striking the target on the starboard or port sides or on the bow/stern and the target movement.
Additionally, as I started working on that (and thanks to Mike Miller for putting together some truly sick spreadsheets to help me prove that switching to dice bell curves would result in the same situation as my original “D10 + modifiers” mechanic) I further realized you could use such bell curves for weaponry as well.
So under the original core mechanic if I was firing say a 3″ Gun Battery at a target I’d roll 2D10, then potentially add several additional modifiers: did the target move, what was the target’s silhouette, what was the target’s size and so on.
Switching over to a “dice bell curve” mechanic, then, most of the modifiers became woven into a set of dice.
If we take the example of say the British HML Raven Destroyer firing a 3 IN Gun Battery at the French Pontbriand Light Cruiser (provided it’s in the right firing arc and range, of course), I’d use a D6 (for the gun battery), then if I was hitting the Pontbriand’s Stern or Bow I’d roll a D10, while if I was hitting its Port or Starboard Location I’d roll a D12. i.e. I’d roll the D6 together with the D10 or D12 (along with a D6 Slot Dice) as a Breach Roll, totally the D6 and D10 or D12 and comparing that value against the Slot on the target as indicated by the Slot Dice.
Thanks to those sick spread sheets I was confident I was on the right track and sending it out to playtesting only re-inforced that moving most modifiers into dice curves worked perfectly.
Along the way I made another change, this time based on the graphics that would eventually appear on each Ship Card (the “record sheet” used to track each ships’ game stats). While the new dice mechanic worked find, trying to come up with a host of dice icons that you could easily read and understand was proving difficult to say the least. It was also during this time I discovered it was actually cheaper to manufactur the same size dice and change the dice facing then it would be to have a full set of polyhedrals.
Those two concepts then merged in my head to color code everything. So all the dice are D12 shaped, but each color coding equals a different polyhedral (i.e. their dice facing reflects the bell curve): Green = D4, Blue = D6, Yellow = D8, Red = D10 and Black = D12. [For the math inclined, yes this means the D8 and D10 are not perfect, standardized D8 and D10 bell curves...but they're close enough to only make a difference say in every 100 games if one side was playing with "Leviathans Dice" and the other side was using standard D8 and D10 polyhedrals.]
This allowed for a simple set of colored pips on the Ship Cards to then easily showcase which dice should be used under various circumstances. So taking the example above, a player would look at the 3 IN Gun Battery Slot on his HML Raven and note the DBlue (grabs a blue dice; i.e. the D6), then looks at the Pontbriand and either grabs a DRed or DBlack (depending upon which Location he’s striking), adds in the prerequisite D6 Slot Dice, tosses all the dice in the Breach Roll, adds up the colored dice for a final value and compares that to the Slot Number indicated by the Slot Dice.
Now ultimately I further tweaked and refined this set-up, adding in additional dice combinations for various situations that enhanced tactical play (obviously I’ll get into those down the line). Additionally, I didn’t dump every modifier…there are still modifiers based on attacker and target damage that refused to be melded into dice…but they’re so few that during play it doesn’t feel encumbered like other games where a half dozen to a dozen modifiers might be applied.
However, at its core I felt I’d found the key to making Leviathans exactly what I wanted it to be. Relatively easy to pick up and play (due to everything being so visually based), yet retaining all the important mechanics that you need for re-playability fun (movement, range and so on are all important and you must play to the strengths of your ships and faction). And that sentiment has only been re-inforced across several large playtests…can’t wait to get up a QSR so you all can try it out yourselves and see how I did.
See ya next duty shift.
Randall


Cool, since I quit playing D&D I have used D8 or D12, now I have a use for them
I love the idea, but have a color-blind player, how will this affect him in the game? Not to put it down, but I’ve seen this in a couple other games (Nin-Gonost comes to mind) and he’s had a bear of a time.
We’re looking into how we might have some website support to help that situation. We’ll just have to see.
As someone who is colour blind please pick the colours very carefully. How about Red, Blue, Yellow, Grey, and Black. These colours are colour blind friendly as they aren’t near each other on the spectrum, so don’t look the same.
Gray and Black aren’t too close to each other? Good information to have…thanks.
Randall
A lot of it does depend on shade, a light Grey is not going to get mixed up with Black, and further more if the shade is done right it won’t be mixed up with white either.
Glad I could help.
Well, fingers crossed we’ll have a QSR up not too many weeks away and could potentially use that to test the colors. No guarantees of course, but worth paying attention to.
Thanks.
How many tables have 2+ colour blind players?
I know at my tables, our players look out for each other, so, if our one colour blind
player were grabbing the wrong dice(and, this player is pretty much truly colour blind, not the more common red-green colour blind) we would be very likely to go “Hey, Leo..that’s a green die..here’s the blue one” and push it over to him.
If your players are not going to help another player fairly, then I think there are more problems at your table then merely a colour blind player….
As you further explained the mechanic, a lot of what happened at the the GenCon demo began making more sense! This is a great mechanic.
Wow. That is a… amazingly elegant mechanic.
And the nascent amateur game designer in me is getting giddy with the potential applications. Thanks a lot.
But my question is, how many dice sets will be included with the game, and is there a plan to also sell them separately? It can get kind of annoying if everyone at the table is having to share the same set of dice, and though standard polyhedrals would substitute fine, there’s the potential to lose the handy color-coding that way.
Have they decided whether the minis will be pre-painted or not?
The current working concept is that there will be two sets of all 5 dice in the box set (Green, Blue, Yellow, Red and Black) and then there will be a separate blister of two sets of the 5 dice. However, that’s still in flux.
No, no decisions have been made on the miniatures yet…we’re still very much in negotiations on that. Have no fear, as soon as we have that information locked down tight, I’ll share.
I know it flies in the face of 25 years of tradition, but what are the chances of rewriting BattleTech to use more streamlines mechanics like this?
Of course, most BT players probably have all the modifiers memorized at this point, so it’s not nearly as cumbersome.
Previously, I did not know the scale. Now that the minis are going to be set at 1/1200. It is a no brainer to anyone that they should come pre-painted. All major companies, such as Albatros, Hai, Neptune, Navis, have their miniatures pre-painted. White metal miniatures for warships in that scale rarely exist. I wish this company should make it to 1/1250 instead although 1/1200 is almost close enough. As long as there are nicely designed with many details. People should be able to pay up to $30 per major capital ship. I am sure that some players will want non-painted miniatures. Most likely, they have never even tried painting on a 1/1250 warship before. Ask them to complain to these major companies first, especially Navis/Neptune, for making their miniatures pre-painted instead of making their voices here.
why “should ” they come pre painted, if its a good quality fair enough, but i for one will be either re painting or adding my own “bits” to them, i think there is nothing worse than seeing a complete fleet/army all the same. i would like an option to maybe have them unpainted, but i know a friend of mine would like them pre paint as thats his preference, all b5 ships are (were) but i agree that now plastic holds a very good detail as your pre sculpt shows, and i usually weight the bottom of plastic ones to give them substance and stops them falling over if the table gets knocked
I am very interested in the game, but will only buy if they are pre-painted. No time to paint right now. =(
oh dont get me wrong, ill buy this even if they are all pp, just add some of my own touches maybe